Top of the world

Durness is as far as it’s possible to go up the west coast without falling in the sea. The route from Ullapool to Durness fantastic with it’s ever changing views. Turn a corner and you’re in the mountains around the next bend and you can be in moorland. Pastures suddenly appear and disappear.



We must be going soft as we decided to stop at another campsite. The Sango Sands site is located above the beach in Durness.

The site was unattended when we arrived, but a sign on the reception door said find a pitch and book in later at 4.30pm when the office opens.

The site was quite busy, but we found a pitch at the front overlooking the beach.


We walked down to the sea with its sandy beach trying to get Ruby to go in, but she’s learnt what waves do and wasn’t having any of that.


The German Overland trucks from Ullapool rolled on to the site in the late afternoon. The North Coast 500 is basically one road, so as we travel round we keep seeing familiar campers.



A fellow camper said he had seen the Northern lights the night before when he stopped at Dunnett head lighthouse.

We stayed up watching the night sky for any signs of the Northern lights. At about 10.30pm the horizon was tinged with a faint green glow and occasionally small beams of green light appeared, but alas that’s as far as it was to go for the evening. Staying up however gave us a show of stars in the night sky that I had only ever seen in photos.

The next morning after a breakfast of cornflakes and toast we set off on our trip. We hadn’t travelled far before we stopped at the Smoo cave which is just a little way on from Durness with it’s own car park and toilets.

A short walk down the wooden steps and we arrived at an enormous entrance to smoo cave.


The cave was formed by a combination of erosion from the sea and an inland underground stream.



Inside the chambers are waterfalls from the streams that pass through.


As we headed East across the top of Scotland there was an obvious change in enviroment. The single track roads petered out and we arrived at Thurso, the first large town we had seen for ages.

It was getting late when we arrived at Dunnett Head Lighthouse. It was also getting windy.



Dunnett Head is the most Northly point of the UK. and the lighthouse car park was going to be our overnight stay for the night.


There was one other campervan staying there and during the night cars arrived, presumably to see if the northern lights were going to show. Unfortunately the night was cloudy and there wasn’t a light show for us. Even with the light from the lighthouse flashing we managed to have a good nights sleep.P1110544



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